Tomas Cochrane, Hummingbird's Sales Director, explored Madagascar's amazing Tsara Komba and Miavana by Time and Tide!
As part of our new Hum Beyond program where we feature amazing properties that are located outside our usual Indian Ocean destinations of Maldives, Mauritius, Seychelles and Sri Lanka, I was lucky enough to join a group FAM trip to Nosy Be in the north of Madagascar to stay 1 night at Tsara Komba and 3 nights at the Miavana. Both properties are managed by Time and Tide who are famous for their luxury safaris in Zambia and Madagascar and they bring a level of quality not found anywhere else in the region.
The Journey
I have spent years at Hummingbird travelling to the Indian Ocean and learning the fine details and differences between the many Maldives and Seychelles islands and it was exciting to discover something different in a new part of the World I had never been before. I flew out of London Heathrow on Ethiopian Airlines via Addis Ababa. Ethiopian has invested in brand new Dreamliner aircraft and I have to say I was very impressed with the first leg of my journey to Addis Ababa. Flying in Economy, the seats were comfortable, leg room generous and service good. Business class seats looked comparable to many other top airlines and there is a big business class lounge at Addis Ababa airport. I would be comfortable recommending this option for partners who are less familiar with Ethiopian Airlines. The aircraft on the second leg from Addis Ababa to Nosy Be was not quite so new and shiny but this is a shorter leg of the journey and for very high end guests it might even be worth booking a private jet.
Tsara Komba
Nosy Be is a small, hot and busy airport with limited facilities and no air conditioning, but we had the Time and Tide team on hand to assist and fast track us through immigration and on to a mini bus. The road winded past Ylang Ylang plantations that create the scent for Chanel number 5 and on to the harbor at Nosy Be. We then boarded a boat for a 30 minute ride to the lush forested island of Nosy Komba to stay at Time and Tide’s newest property Tsara Komba which they took over a couple of years ago.
Tsara Komba is a Forest to reef lodge with easy access to both, comprised of just 8 villas, it is an intimate and charming little property. Located on a secluded corner of the island, the Gardeners in particular need to get a special mention because the flowers and trees around the villas and walkways fit so harmoniously and are so colorful and lush it truly creates a special location for guests. The Villas are raised up on the side of the hill offering spectacular views from their ample decking of the Nosy Be area and Mangroves forests in the distance. The steps to most of the villas are steep and its not the most accessible for young children or those with mobility issues.
After a quick refresh we were whisked off for a sunset boat trip to the Mangroves to enjoy drinks and Canapes. These Mangroves are an endangered and protected habitat in Madagascar, bio diverse and rich In wildlife and a great area to explore by boat with a drink in hand. We were greeted with a spectacular rainbow as the sun set and evening light became ethereal. Back at the Lodge it was time for dinner served in the main restaurant and bar area which is perched up high on the hill and offers some of the best views. The cuisine served highlighted local Madagascan flavors and I enjoyed some locally caught reef fish with rice and washed down with a local Three Horse Beer. The Villas do not have air conditioning and the concept is very much open air and being in touch with nature. Under the mosquito netting with a fan blowing and the air cooling I slept well, but having air conditioning might be make or break for some guests.
Built from traditional materials with large thatched roofs, local wood floors and traditional artifacts around the bedroom, the villas have a very homely feel and would be a great place for a writer's retreat. I woke up early the next day to take in a spectacular sunrise from my balcony and then walked over to the main restaurant area to watch the endemic Malagasy Black Swifts filling the air, darting around the trees catching insects. The tide was out in the morning and it gave me a chance to appreciate the very private and generous beach at the foot of the property. For me, Tsara Komba is a lovely little lodge and would work particularly well either at the beginning or end of a larger Madagascan adventure. Ideal for guests who want something simple and quiet to relax undisturbed with great sunrises and sunsets.
After an early breakfast we set off to Nosy Tanikely National Park which is a short boat ride from the lodge. It’s a tiny little National park island famous for its excellent snorkelling from its house reef and for its brown Lemurs on the island interior. We hiked up a short way to the central point by the lighthouse and were greeted by a brown Lemur resting up a tree digesting his own breakfast. Visibility for the snorkelling was excellent and I saw plenty of healthy corals, eagle rays and turtles. Next we went on to Nosy Sakatia and snorkelled with giant green turtles who were feeding on numerous jelly fish and seaweed. It's a popular spot for green turtles and you are almost guaranteed to see them. The jelly fish in the water were a bit disconcerting, but the sting did not hurt, more of a light itch and after a few minutes in the water I was too busy watching with amazement as the green Turtles gobbled them up.
To wrap up our days adventuring we went to a secluded private beach and a lovely picnic. It was great to get insight into the kinds of activities that are possible in and around Nosy Be which is abundant in marine life, with a variety of national parks and snorkelling spots and secluded beaches. I would definitely like to come back and explore more and Tsara Komba is an ideal launchpad to do it from!
Miavana by Time and Tide
We headed back to the airport at Nosy Be to board our helicopter to Miavana. I must admit I was a bit nervous about getting in a Helicopter having never been in one before but upon seeing the 6 seater aircraft, I was immediately put at ease as it’s a really high end piece of kit. (And expensive being worth over 4 million dollars). My advice for clients is travel light with soft cases that will fit easily into the Helicopter. We were greeted by the pilot Hein, a laconic and incredibly cool customer who has been with Miavana since the beginning and was a very reassuring pilot. Without doubt it was the best arrival experience I have ever had at any property I have visited. The Helicopter flight to Miavana is simply jaw dropping. We flew over the spectacular northern Madagascan landscape filled with national parks, rivers, mountains, red earthed canyons, small remote villages nearly entirely self-sufficient. I could not stop smiling the whole journey and all 6 of us sat in stunned silence just taking it all in.
After passing the northern tip of the country we went out to sea and approached the very remote island of Miavana. I was struck by how large the island looked, (around 10 square KM) dense with foliage with the resort occupying just one small corner. The rest of the island consists of 3 small villages, a local school, an abandoned lighthouse, and its blanketed low lying forest home to around 15 crowned Lemurs and lots of deserted beaches ripe for discovery.
History of Miavana
Miavana was established in 2017 on an island that was originally home to a thriving seaweed farm. The farm has since moved to the mainland, but there was a lot of work to be done to rehabilitate the area and return it to its natural state. Non-native pine trees had to be removed and over 100 000 indigenous trees were planted with a family of crowned Lemurs introduced. The whole process took about 4 years but all the hard work has been well worth it. The resort was designed by architects Silvio Rech and Lesley Carstens and stylistically is a blend of local, traditional with modern and minimalist. The star material of the show is the white stone used to clad all the buildings which was brought over from a family-owned quarry on the mainland. If I was to use a word to describe the aesthetic, I think ‘elegant’ fits quite well. There is something very classy yet simple in the design of the Villas and main hub area that is pleasing on the eye and that accentuates the surrounding nature. The greens of the vegetation, the Turquoise blue of the sea, the whites of the sand all complement the main structures harmoniously. I was really taken with the overall design.
Food and Beverage
The main hub area is called the Piazza, where the main restaurant, bar, Library / Museum, Boutique shop and Pool are located and it's where we spent most of our time on the island outside of the villas. Dining options were of a high quality but a bit limited when compared to the vast array options you can get at some 5 star luxury properties in the Maldives. You have the choice of 3 starters, 3 mains, and 3 deserts on the constantly changing A La Carte menu and there is also an all day dining and Pizza menu to choose from. The food served was authentic, locally sourced and beautifully presented as would be expected at a luxury 5 star plus property like this. There is a new seafood restaurant coming in a few months which will be located in a little bay next to the Helipad and I think this will add a bit of variety for guests. The other option of course is to dine in your spectacular villa which comes equipped with a small Kitchen for preparation.
Facilities/Entertainment
Miavana is based on an All inclusive plan so pretty much everything is included in the room rate apart from extra spa treatments, diving trips and extra helicopter excursions. So you have all your meals, drinks, diving lessons, water sports, half day fishing trips, island excursions, picnics, quad biking included in the price. The other facilities of note are the spa which was closed when we were there so treatments were delivered in our villas and I would rank it as the best massage I have ever had. The sound of an incoming storm and the rain falling on the roof of my villa made it extra relaxing. There is also a gym which I always make it my business to never to visit on FAM trips but I understand it would benefit from having the air con turned on as it was quite hot inside. Since Miavana is in an exposed location, when the wind blows, it can really pick up, ideal for kitesurfing and wind surfers but not so much for sun bathers. The winds tend to pick up more from May to November (winter in Madagascar) and the temperatures are a bit cooler, but still very pleasant. Being an island offshore, Miavana receives less rainfall than the mainland and I was staying at the end of the traditional rainy season which runs from January to March and had very good weather overall. Like any green and verdant tropical island, Miavana is blessed with plenty of Mosquitoes so I would recommend covering up with repellent and wearing long trousers and long sleeved shirts in the evenings and at least the breeze keeps those numbers down a bit. Mosquitoes seem to have a particular affinity for my blood but I managed to avoid getting too many bites during the course of my stay. Humpback Whale season fits within the windier period from July to October
Accommodation
There are 14 Beach front Villas in total with a selection of 1 bedroom, 2 bedroom and 3 bedroom units. Each unit comes equipped with a private pool, indoor and outdoor showers, study/lounge area, spare bedroom, Kitchenette, bicycles, an electric buggy and Butler service. The Villas all feel incredibly spacious, allowing for an abundance of natural light and with the newly fitted air conditioning units you can stay cool inside while still feeling at one with nature. They are set back a little from the beach with a grassed garden and swaying palm trees dotted around providing shade. A pathway leads directly on to the beach which is powdery and the views are completely undisturbed by anything other than sea birds and the mountains of the mainland silhouetting against the setting sun in the distance. The size of the island allows for the villas to be well spaced apart and I was located at Villa number 1 which has a long sandbank in front snaking out into the sea and is as private as it gets, ideal for families, groups or celebrities who want to be hidden away. For guests that want to stay connected, the internet was surprisingly good thanks to Starlink so you can send emails and even stream live sport should you want. It’s a shame Elon Musk can’t just stick to providing the internet rather than being actively on it. The thoughtful design, the beach, the amenities and the butler service all come together to create one of the best villas I have had the pleasure of staying in and I would put them alongside the villas at Soneva Secret in terms of the best of the best.
Tommy's Advice
When you come to Miavana, you really have to experience the different excursions available, for me that is what makes it truly unique. We tracked the crowned Lemurs on the island and then followed them through thick bush, we rode on quadbikes visiting the local school and local village to catch a glimpse of authentic Madagascan life, we took a boat trip out to snorkel in the local reef with their huge hard coral formations, and we picnicked on an idyllic deserted island. Having all these amazing experiences at the guests fingertips and included in the all-inclusive is an important detail to highlight. The more you put in to these excursions, the more you will get out of them and a little bit of patience and persistence goes a long way especially when you are hoping to spot wildlife. On top of this I would also recommend guests book extra Helicopter excursions to the mainland. There is a cost involved of around USD10k for 2 hours of flying time for 2 people but for guests at this level I think its well worth the investment and would allow for several trips over their stay. We were lucky enough to be taken to Anjahakely national park which is home to the rare and endemic Black Lemur. There are only 200 of these adorable creatures left and after a short hike in to the forest and with the aid of our brilliant trackers, we found ourselves surrounded by a family of black Lemurs who playing in the trees above us at first before coming down to the forest floor to sit at our feet and eat fruit that had fallen down. On the way back we flew past a large expanse of Baobab trees, the iconic tree of Madagascar, looking resplendent covered in leaves. We also flew close to The Sacred Lake of Anivorano which is formed in a crater and filled with Crocodiles believed to be the ancestors of villages who were cursed by a traveller who was refused water. Sacrifices are still made today by locals on Saturdays where they offer up some of their Zebu (local cattle) to the hungry crocs. While there are many spectacular national parks to explore and visit, perhaps none are more otherworldly than the stone forest of Tsingy d’Ankarana, filled with needle sharp limestone formations weathered by acidic rain and filled with sink holes and underground cave systems. Tsingy in Malagasy means “Where one cannot walk barefoot” but there are areas accessible by helicopter which allow for exploration on foot where few people have ever visited. There is so much to explore In this remote corner of the earth you could spend a week at Miavana and only just scratched the surface of what there is to see.
Final Thoughts
Overall, I was blown away by my stay in Miavana, it is by far and away the most luxurious resort in the country and can sit comfortably alongside the most exclusive properties we feature like Soneva Secret, North Island, and Kisawa Sanctuary. The island is a playground for nature lovers, the villas are stylish and elegant, the service is slick and attentive, the excursions are unforgettable. Further improvements can be made once they add a few more facilities like another restaurant, a new spa, and they convert the abandoned lighthouse into a special venue. In the meantime this is a property we should be recommending to top end clients who have a sense of adventure and are looking for something exclusive and private.
